by Craig Martin
December 7, 2011 in United States of America
What to do in New York? You could start by shopping at Apple NYC, staying at the Casablanca Hotel, and visiting the Empire State building, Times Square, MOMA, the Met, Top of the Rock, City Line circle cruise, the Highline Park, the Pony Bar, and Chelsea Market. The NYCgo pass can be a good investment if you’re planning on doing a lot of sightseeing, as it gives access to a lot of the major attractions.
by Craig Martin
December 2, 2011 in Malaysia
I was reminded of the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur the other day. Visiting them and rising up to the observation deck is one of the many free things to do in Kuala Lumpur. However, before you go, you are subjected to a propaganda film about the owners: the State oil company!
See our free Kuala Lumpur guide for more things to do.
by Craig Martin
December 1, 2011 in New Zealand
There are so many things to do in the Bay of Islands, but if you’re not out sport fishing, a short cruise is an excellent way to see the bays and islands — and sometimes to see whales and dolphins as well; knocking off a couple of great experiences in one go.
We had the chance to do just that: an overnight cruise on the Ipipiri on their last sailing of the season. The Ipipiri is a new-built boat — the largest one sailing in the Bay of Islands — and it is well-designed for comfort and fun on short trips, maximizing opportunities to enjoy the outdoors, rather than housing casinos or multiple restaurants.
We were travelling around the Bay of Islands in a Spaceships camper van. Unsure what to do with the vehicle overnight, we checked in early at the Paihia wharf and asked the staff, who were surprisingly friendly, especially considering we hadn’t had our first cup of coffee for the morning. They were prepared to deal with vehicles and organised overnight parking for us. We headed to Waitangi for a few hours of sightseeing then returned at around 12 o’clock ready to go.
Our cabin on the Ipipiri
After a thirty-minute wait in a comfortable waiting room, we boarded a coach with several other passengers to head down to the wharf. We were greeted by the smiling crew as we boarded, and directed upstairs for a short safety briefing, after which we were shown our rooms. Linda and I had a room midships — larger than we expected, with expansive windows and great views of the sea. Although the room was beautifully appointed, we hurried back upstairs for muffins, coffee and wonderful views as we pulled out of the harbour.
There were some strong winds coming through (a storm had cancelled my dive the day before) but the size of the ship and the protective islands and bays meant we were sailing smoothly. Within half an hour we encountered a pod of dolphins, and also some dolphin-watching boats. The captain pulled to a stop to allow us to watch them play for almost half an hour.
Dolphin watching in the Bay of Islands
We passed some small settlements on the hills and in the bays, as well as some dramatically high granite bluffs, and by mid-afternoon we had reached Ruapekapeka Island. We took to small boats to go and explore the island, the storm making it too cold to swim in the cool green water.
Start of track on Ruapekapeka island
Urupekapeka island is partially managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) to control pests and allow native birds to flourish. There were several trails through the forest on the island but, being us, we chose the most difficult. As we moved away from the fine white sand on the beach we realised that we must be on a pest tracking and trapping trail; the way was steep and narrow, covered in deep mud, and we were panting by the time we got to the top of the rise. We were rewarded, however, by beautiful little groves along the way and the sight of several unusual birds. The conservation work on Ruapekapeka Island is certainly doing a lot of good for the endemic bird population, and we were glad to have been able to see it.
The Ipipiri is the largest ship in the Bay of Islands
Back on the boat we bought a couple of glasses of Northland wine to complement the complimentary cheeseboard, as we sailed to our anchoring point for dinner and to spend the night. The many bays of the Bay of Islands offered many options, allowing our captain to choose a sheltered spot for us to stop in. We enjoyed the buffet dinner, seated with a group of Chinese students studying English in Auckland. It was pitch black by the time dinner was over so we had an early night, retiring to our room and going to sleep.
Those magnificently large cabin windows came in handy the next morning as we woke to wonderful views. Steep green hills rose to a blue sky; the winds still blew but the grey clouds had gone. We went up to breakfast, chatted with other passengers, and enjoyed the nearly panoramic views.
Passing Paihia on the Bay of Islands Cruise
All too soon we were heading back towards the harbour, but there were still some surprises in store. The ship sailed comfortably through wind-whipped white waves, but we were still able to spot some dolphins chasing fish along the cliff face. The captain slowed to give us a good look, but kept a polite distance; the dolphins responded to the attention by making huge vertical leaps to the delight of everyone on board.
By mid-morning our bags were packed and we were slowing down and heading into the harbour as seabirds dove in our wake. It was the end of 24 hours of comfortable luxury and a wonderful way to celebrate our ninth wedding anniversary.
The Ipipiri overnight cruise in the Bay of Islands doesn’t always follow the same schedule. Depending on weather, wildlife and other factors, the captain and crew have dozens of options for things to do — including kayaking, swimming and snorkelling, as well as island excursions and dolphin- or whale-watching. You can learn more here.
Without a car, Paihia is a four-hour bus ride from Auckland with the InterCity Northliner bus. You can buy point-to-point tickets or get a flexipass, which allows further travel on a per-journey basis. To check current pricing, use the search box to the right.
Flights from Auckland are possible (private or through Air New Zealand), but the local airports are all very small, so it pays to talk to your accommodation provider in advance about transfers.
Hop-on, hop-off bus passes are also available, mainly serving a 18-35 year-old crowd. The drivers or local guides with these New Zealand backpacker buses can often arrange accommodation for you as well. Check out Stray for current pricing.
If you are driving yourself, head straight up State Highway One until you see signs pointing you away from Kawakawa. With reasonable driving conditions, you can expect to be there in a little over three hours. We really recommend Spaceships as an excellent way to get around New Zealand: priced like a rental car, these converted people-movers come with a fridge, DVD player and a bed: a great combination of luxury and the ability to rough it. They book out early though, so if you see one available during summer, get it.
by Craig Martin
November 11, 2011 in Brazil
Christ the Redeemer might be the most famous statue of Jesus in the world, but did you know it’s only the fifth biggest? In any case, a trip to the Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro is well worth the effort – not just to see the big man up close, but also to enjoy the panoramic views of the city, from Ipanema beach to the Sugarloaf and beyond.
Looking for more detailed Brazil travel information? You’ll find it here.
by Craig Martin
October 22, 2011 in Travel Gear
I never wanted a Kindle. I mean, it looked like a great gadget but I struggled to see how it might fit into my life. I love reading (and gadgets), but since the rise of the internet, I’ve found less and less time to get absorbed in a book. I think my friends know me better than I do, because for my most-recent birthday, they clubbed together and got me one. Now I spend an hour or more a day devouring books just like I did as a teenager.
Delivery took a little longer than expected, so first they presented me with this, which I’ll call the Mark One; a week or so later the updated version arrived, which Amazon are now calling the Kindle Keyboard 3G.
After a few weeks of use at home in New Zealand, I’ve been using the Kindle 3 “on the road” for two months. It’s been a fantastic companion through Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay and Paraguay — not only is it lighter than paperbacks (I used to carry two or three in my backpack at all times), but the way of reading has dramatically changed.
If carrying a paperback, I tend to try and save it for when I’m really bored, but with the Kindle I can read to my heart’s content knowing there are more $0.99 cent books just around the corner — or articles and PDFs that I’ve downloaded online and sent to my Kindle. There’s no need to leave books until you find a book exchange.
On week two in Brazil we were staying with a family that spoke little Spanish and no English. We could jump straight on the 3G connection and download a Portuguese phrasebook while in their living room — making basic communication so much easier!
We often arrive in a town with no plans, trusting in the local tourist information office or a swarm of touts to help us get started. Sometimes that just doesn’t work out, so we can use the free 3G to connect to the internet and check our hostel search tool to find a place to stay.
Soon three new styles of Kindle are going to be released. I’m sure they’re going to have advantages but apart from a small speed bump, I think the Kindle 3 does its core job — selling and displaying books — really well.
The $79 Kindle lacks a keyboard or a touchscreen. I really wouldn’t want to be doing a lot of searches or trying to pen a basic email using the joystick to move around. (See the specs for Kindle, Wi-Fi, 6″ 
The Kindle touch looks great, and is likely to be the second Kindle in our family. I’d be concerned about what would happen if it accidentally gets unlocked in my backpack, would I end up buying dozens of books as it’s moved around? I’m also not sure about the screen technology — will it need more protection than the current model? (More on the Kindle Touch 3G
The Kindle Fire is something else, and it’ll be interesting to see how well it handles PDFs, like the Indie Travel Podcast Magazine or the Art of Solo Travel. (More on the full-colour Kindle Fire
All Indie Travel Media ebooks are available on the Kindle; along with a growing collection of articles and stories collated from the Indie Travel Podcast. We can offer these at a lower price than the full versions, as they do not have lifetime updates, multimedia, or access to the special follow-up email series that exist for our premier products like Art of Couples’ Travel and Art of Solo Travel.
Currently available for Kindle:
by Craig Martin
October 21, 2011 in Uruguay
Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay is easily reached from Montevideo or by ferry from Buenos Aires, Argentina. The historic old town is the tourism highlight, with cute cafes, a wonderful waterfront area, and the ruins of the old town square and town wall taking precedence.
One of the best things about Colonia del Sacramento is that it makes a great day trip from Buenos Aires — a chance to escape from the rush and noise of the big city.
Tower and truck in sunny Colonia
Colonia del Sacramento also makes a great stop on a Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro itinerary.
Looking for more information or inspiration? Check out our South America travel advice.
by Craig Martin
October 9, 2011 in Promotions
As you know, we’ve been working with Urban Adventures for the last few months. They’re a great organisation, organising day-tours in cities around the world — from Argentina to Zambia.
We have done this Buenos Aires walking tour and these cheap tours at Foz do Iguacu; both with interesting guides and a real local flavour.
This month, they’re offering a free little recipe book along with 15% off day tours, when you use the code “foodie” on checkout. You can use this search box to discover if they have day tours where you are, or somewhere you are travelling soon:
The cookbook features recipes sourced from the local tour guides — in fact, many of them went out to their favourite food maker and asked for the recipe. There’s a preview here, with the first three recipes.
To get the whole recipe book (and to get 15% off any bookings you make in October), remember to use the coupon code “foodie” when you check out.
>> Learn more about Urban Adventures near you.
We really appreciate everyone who supports the site by booking through links on Indie Travel Podcast. We love being able to produce it for you, and — in a very real way — without your purchases, this just wouldn’t be possible. You can book flights, hostels, insurance and tours through us, or shop on Amazon.com … and we can keep our podcasts, videos and articles free for everyone.
by Craig Martin
September 2, 2011 in Turkey
On a hot, dusty day its hard to walk past this fountain between the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque in tourist-central, Istanbul. The place is full of tourists for a reason though, with amazing architecture, a fascinating history, and several attractions all worthy of a stop. Just make sure you don’t spent all your time in
by Craig Martin
July 11, 2011 in Cambodia
Many consider Phnom Penh to be a city that’s best to skip through rather than stop in. While it’s not crowded with tourist attractions, there’s certainly enough to see and do to keep you in the Cambodian capital for a while.
To listen to this podcast, press play or find episode 202 for free in iTunes:
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Some of our favourite places include:
The Royal Palace is open to visitors for a few hours each morning and afternoon. Pagodas, temples and some courtyards are open to the public with a few small museums crammed in older buildings.
Statues in the Royal Palace of Phnom Penh
My highlight, amongst the piles of Buddhas, stupas and pagodas has to be the mural depicting mythical battles and other stories that covers one of the courtyard’s inner walls. The entire painting has to be close to half-a-kilometre long and is quite well-preserved, although some parts show significant damage.
Beautiful art fills four walls of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh
Wat Phnom sits in the north of central Phnom Penh
Near the northern end of the modern inner city, Wat Phnom rises a short distance, giving views of all the city from its peak. Baboons feast on the lotus flowers left as offerings in the shrines and an elephant makes slow circuits with its mahmout and a cargo of tourist couples.
The wat was built in 1373 on the top of an artificial hill. It was commissioned by a wealthy woman called Penh, after whom the the city of Phnom Penh is named.
Sadly, one of Phnom Penh’s top attractions is the remnants of an ultra-communist regime which killed around two million people in under four years. Tuol Sleng, or S21, was a primary school before the Khmer Rouge transformed it into a prison and interrogation centre. Today, it is a stark reminder of a dark era, with the original buildings housing a museum, document centre and several photo exhibitions.
An empty bed in a Tuol Sleng torture chamber
Barred windows overlook the city
After walking through the four buildings, find a tuk-tuk to take you to the killing fields outside of the city. Prisoners who survived torture in Tuol Sleng were taken here along with the bodies of those who didn’t. Executions were summary, and bodies were left in the field without proper Buddhist burial — an issue for survivors and the families of victims to this day.
Although grim, these sites are an important part of modern Cambodian history; understanding the effects of the Khmer Rouge is integral to forming an understanding of life now. Also see Four sites in Asia you must visit, but wish didn’t exist.
The Bophana audio-visual centre is the best place to be on a rainy afternoon; and there’s lots of those between August and October. Film clips from as long ago as the 1890s have been digitised and made freely available to view, with browsing available in Khmer, French and English. A shadow-puppet show was running at 6pm when we were there, but check Bophana for up-to-date information.
Exterior of the Bophana Gallery. It was hard to spot!
The German cultural centre runs a café and outdoor theatre called Metahouse. We were able to catch three short documentaries in one night and talk briefly with some of the filmmakers afterwards. Sitting on the roof with a cool breeze and glass of wine seemed to contrast with the harsh reality of Cambodian AIDS sufferers we were seeing on screen.
Catching a documentary at Metahouse. An illuminated Wat in the background.
Grab an up-to-date list in English of what events and screenings are being run from the Metahouse.
Although we didn’t manage it, a sunset cruise on the Tonle Sap River that runs along the riverside is recommended. A look at the view is enough to prove this one!
Follow up your cruise with a drink in the Foreign Correspondents’ Centre, known to everyone as the FCC. With riverside views, it’s a popular expat stop and has a very acceptable house wine (making a nice contrast with almost everywhere in Southeast Asia).
There are several great Khmer restaurants in Phnom Penh which are tourist-friendly. Those on the riverside are not, perhaps, the best options. Look around side-streets close to the independence monument for a tastier experience.
Fish Amok was our dish of choice when hitting the Khmer kitchens; a lightly spiced curry served in small packets of coconut leaf along with steamed rice. Most Khmers would only eat amok for special occasions, but it’s cooked daily in the capital; each district has its own variation of amok, so make sure you try it in each area you visit.
Fish amok; our favourite Cambodian dish
One of the major issues faced by Cambodia, and many Southeast Asian countries, is child prostitution. Don’t be surprised to see “sexpats” lining the dark roads looking to pick up partners or young people. You can learn more about the fight against child sex tourism and trafficking in Cambodia, and learn what to do if you witness it, at ECPAT-Cambodia or call the Department of Anti-Human Trafficking, Ministry of Interior, at (855-23) 997 919.
You shouldn’t let this put you off visiting though: in general Cambodia is currently a safe place for tourists with little violent crime reported and a very hard line on punishment drawn by community members. You will probably want a sober friend spotting you if you intend to roll out of a bar a 4am, but that kind of advice applies to any city you don’t know.
Phnom Penh is a faded capital, but one that’s on the up once more. It’s well worth a visit to wander the French colonial street-fronts, bask in the disappearing luxury of the Khmer Empire, and see a city and a people rising from the damage of a deadly totalitarian regime.
Read more about travelling the capital and the country on our Cambodia travel planning page.
by Craig Martin
July 7, 2011 in New Zealand
Northland, New Zealand is home to the great Kauri tree, Tane Mahuta. Inspired by the name of his Spaceship, Craig heads north visiting colonial museums on the way to Waipoua Forest and Tane Mahuta.
During this trip Craig visits:
This post is part of New Zealand week on Indie Travel Podcast. Visit our New Zealand travel planning page for more info on getting around.
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Jen Ryder
Hi Linda! Just found your blog and I'm really
Megan
HI Dave! Like Fiona, I'm considering the prog
Craig and Linda
Often touching money, Sofia?! I wish :)
Craig and Linda
Yes, that's no use!
Craig and Linda
Trust me: I call it propaganda whenever a multi-bi
Since November 2006 the Indie Travel Podcast has evolved into an independent travel hub with regular audio and video podcasts along with articles by travellers from all over the world. Read more about the Indie Travel Podcast.
Hosts Craig and Linda Martin started travelling in February 2006 and have been to over 50 countries. They were last seen here.
© 2006-2012 Indie Travel Media Ltd
