You are browsing the archive for Linda Martin - Indie Travel Podcast.

Ayutthaya, Thailand, by bike and boat

February 6, 2012 in Thailand

Ayutthaya, one of Thailand’s ex-capitals, is located about 90 minutes’ drive from the present capital, Bangkok. It’s packed with remnants from its glory days, and makes a great day trip from Bangkok, especially if you hop on a bike as we did.

We caught a minivan from Bangkok central and were met at the Ayutthaya end by our guide Nhoi from Ayutthaya Boat and Travel. After a quick stop at the office to pick up bikes and another guide, we were off.

The first stop was at one of the most beautiful information centres I’d ever been in, full of intricate models and informative signage. Next we headed to the old palace complex, and wandered around the temples there. We stopped for a coconut juice at the giant reclining Buddha, and saw more temples on the way back to the office. Our guide was informative without overwhelming us with information, and I felt like I’d learned a lot about the city during our short tour.

Of course, that wasn’t the end of the day. We tuktuked down to the river where we were ushered onto a riverboat, set up with a table and chairs. The two guides and the boat pilot came on board laden down with dishes, which they then proceeded to serve to us. There was far more than we could ever have eaten, though we gave it our best shot. Nhoi also introduced us to Roti Sai Mai, an Ayutthayan sweet – basically sweet pancakes rolled around candy floss.

After a slow cruise down the river, admiring the ancient architecture and feeding the fishes outside the temple, it was time to return to dock and from there to Bangkok. It was a day with a little of everything: exercise, culture and tasty food – and what more can you ask for than that?

For more on Thailand, check out our Thailand page.

Christ the Redeemer, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

February 3, 2012 in Brazil

Rio de Janeiro’s famous statue of Christ the Redeemer is located on the top of Corcovado mountain. It’s a symbol of the city and of Brazil, and a visit to the top of the hill to see it up close is a must-do on the itinerary of most visitors to the city.

Many tourists visit by organised tour, usually as part of a day tour that takes in some of Rio’s other sights — such as the Selarón steps, the cathedral and the Sugar Loaf. You can visit independently by catching the Trem do Corcovado (Corcovado train) for R$36, by hiring a car or taking a taxi — or you can just walk, which is what we did.

The views of Rio and the Christ on the way up the hill are well worth the walk, as are the views from the very top of the hill. A minibus service is provided for the last stretch, so you can save a little energy there. Entrance to the statue complex itself is R$17.75 (more on the weekend).

For more on Brazil, check out our Brazil page.

How to catch a long-distance bus in Brazil

January 30, 2012 in Brazil

Brazil is an enormous country and distances between major centres can be vast, making air travel very appealing. If you can plan in advance, travelling by plane for at least part of your journey is a good option, because budget airlines Webjet and Azul offer very good promotional fares. However, if you are making things up as you go along, or want to see the country as you go, you’ll probably end up spending a lot of your time on buses.

Brazil’s bus network is well-developed, with a variety of companies offering journeys between major and not-so-major cities. Prices vary according to what journey you’re doing and the level of comfort you require, but not necessarily according to distance: a 15-hour trip from Foz do Iguaçu to Sao Paulo is about the same as the six-hour journey between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Generally though, you can expect to pay about US$8 per hour on the road: in other words, it’s not that cheap.

Buying a ticket

If there more than one company runs the same route, prices will probably be extremely similar if not identical for the same service. In fact, they may well be selling seats on the same bus. Levels of comfort vary; semi-cama gives you a reclining seat with leg rest, executive has more shoulder room and may include a snack, and … is more luxurious again. Semi-cama is more than comfortable enough for trips during the day, but if you’re travelling overnight it might be worth splashing out for a slightly better option.

Bus ticket Brazil

Buy your tickets in person.

Although some bus companies allow you to purchase tickets online, this isn’t common. You can also choose to buy your tickets over the phone, though if your Portuguese is a bit nonexistent this could be a little difficult; the easiest way is to buy your ticket out of a city from the main bus station. You can usually pay by cash or credit card.

You will be shown a plan of the bus, usually on a computer, and given the chance to choose your seat. Choose one near the front; most buses are equipped with toilets and on single-level buses these are situated at the back. Toilets on double-decker buses are usually beside the stairs, at the front of the lower level, and any smell doesn’t usually travel up the stairs.

When you get your ticket, put it in a safe place and try not to leave it behind at your accommodation like we did. It might be a good idea to take a photo of it, so that you have a record in case of loss or theft, though there’s no guarantee that the bus company will accept this as a valid ticket. It’s worth a go though, and doubles as proof for your insurance company.

Boarding

You’ll need to write your name and passport number (or ID card number if you’re South American), and have your passport ready to present when boarding. The ticket collector will rip off the half of the ticket with your name on it and you’ll be free to board the bus. Keep the ticket on you, as someone will come around to check it later on in the journey.

Brazil long-distance bus terminal

Brazil long-distance bus terminal

Large pieces of luggage can be stored under the bus, you’ll be given a numbered ticket to present on arrival at your destination. This number is also written on your physical ticket and sometimes on a separate register. Sometimes, hand luggage is given a sticker, with a matching sticker going on a register; all of this sticking and ticketing means that boarding can be a rather long and involved process. Speed things up by having your name already written on your ticket, having your passport ready, and travelling with carry-on size luggage only.

On the bus

Once you’re finally on the bus, the driver will introduce himself (it’s usually a him) and let you know the expected arrival time and when the next stop will be. Unlike in Argentina, where most trips are relatively direct, Brazilian buses take breaks at rest stops every two to four hours. This is probably to give the driver a break; Argentinean long-distance buses generally have two drivers while Brazilian buses just have one. Also, Brazilian buses generally don’t serve meals — you might be given a cold snack on some buses but you won’t get the concierge service of Argentina. Most rest stops are at roadhouses which offer a range of hot and cold food, giving you the chance to buy a meal or a snack for the rest of the journey.

Brazil bus

A bus in a Brazilian bus station.

Almost all long-distance coaches are equipped with a DVD player but you might be lucky enough to not have one played during your journey. If one is played, it will probably be dubbed into Portuguese and without subtitles. Be aware that the air conditioning is often set to “cold” — if you’re storing your luggage under the bus bring an extra jumper or two, and wear thermal underwear for overnight journeys. You won’t be offered a blanket on the more basic services.

Travelling by long-distance bus can be a good way to get around Brazil — just make sure you’ve got all the paperwork and you’re ready to go.

Swimming with dolphins on Kangaroo Island

January 27, 2012 in Australia

Swimming with dolphins is a must-do on many people’s bucket list, and it’s easy to achieve on Kangaroo Island, South Australia. KI Marine Adventures run frequent tours, with a maximum of 12 people per tour — giving you more time to spend with the dolphins.

Andrew was an excellent guide, making the tour about even more than getting in the water with dolphins. He explained about the wildlife and geography of the area, served home-made biscuits for morning tea, and gave us a wild ride on the way back to the jetty.

For more on Australia, check out our Australia travel page.

Itaipu Dam, Paraguay

January 6, 2012 in Paraguay

The Itaipu dam, one of the seven wonders of the modern world, is a hydroelectric dam which spans the River Paraná between Brazil and Paraguay. You can visit from either side, and it’s easy to get there from Ciudad del Este, Paraguay.

You can visit as part of an organised tour, or take advantage of the visitor centre’s four free visits every weekday (five on Saturday, three on Sunday). Make sure to time your visit with the showing of the movie which precedes the tour, as it will give you more understanding about what you’re about to see, as well as filling your brain with overwhelming statistics about how much electricity is produced each day and each year. The video covers the history of construction as well as giving up-to-date statistics about production.

After the video, you’ll be shown to a coach which will drive you around the dam, with a stop at a lookout so you can take panoramic photos. The coach drives up onto the retaining wall between the dam lake and the spillway so that you can see both sides at once, before returning to the access road back to the visitor centre.

Entrance is free, the only cost the 3,000 guarani bus fare each way… making a total spend of less than US$2.

For more on Paraguay, check out our Paraguay page.

Wine tasting in the Barossa Valley with Groovy Grape

December 30, 2011 in Australia

Wine is an important part of Australian culture, and the Barossa Valley is a great place to do some tasting. If you’re travelling alone, hopping on a day tour with Groovy Grape, like we did, can be a good way to see the region and be introduced to some of Australia’s more well-known wine labels.

The day started in a slightly surreal manner at the second-biggest rocking horse in the world. It was more of a rest stop than anything else — I didn’t see anyone buy toys from the gift shop, though a lot of people used the toilet and bought coffee at the cafe.

Next, we visited the Whispering Wall, an old water catchment dam which has the interesting feature of being able to transmit sound from one end to the other — we could hear each other talking from either end of the wall, which was cool.

Then, it was finally on to wine tasting. We started at Jacob’s Creek, one of Australia’s most well-known labels, who are well-equipped for hosting several large groups at a time, and have developed a slick system for getting as many people as possible into their tasting room. We enjoyed Simpatico Wines more, the next stop on our tour, because it was smaller and had more character — and the wines were better too. Our driver cooked up a barbecue lunch on the grounds of Simpatico and a bunch of us bought a bottle of wine from the cellar door to go with it.

The third stop, Richmond Grove, wasn’t the most exciting of wineries, but the final stop made up for it: Seppeltsfield not only offered a range of good wines, the tasting room also hosts a chocolate boutique.

The Groovy Grape tour is a good introduction to wine-tasting if you’re a beginner and don’t have your own car, but if you’re more of a connoisseur visiting some of the smaller wineries by car might be a better option.

Riding an elephant near Chiang Mai, Thailand

December 23, 2011 in Thailand

The Maesa Elephant Camp is located not far from Chiang Mai, Thailand. It’s about a 45-minute trip by taxi or tuktuk, and any agency will be happy to arrange transport for you, though it’s cheaper to negotiate with a driver yourself.

There’s an entrance fee to enter the camp, which includes an elephant show (check the times before you arrive, we saw the 9:30am one) but doesn’t cover a ride on an elephant — you’ll need to buy a separate ticket for that, and you’ll be given a time slot for your ride.

The starting place for elephant rides is towards the rear of the complex, where there’s an elephant-mounting structure — a wooden platform with spaces for the elephants to stand to collect and drop off passengers — all you have to do is step into the palanquin.

We opted for the half-hour trip, so our guide headed left along a well-trodden path. We saw others heading right, into the forest, perhaps they’d chosen a longer tour? The experience was surprisingly bumpy; as the elephant plodded along, especially up and down hills, we felt the effect of every footstep.

Along the way, we stopped in the river so our elephant could refresh itself, and picked up a bundle of food for the road. We also saw other elephants having a shower or relaxing in the sun; they seemed healthy and happy, and we heard that all the elephants get time in the forests every afternoon.

I’m still not sure how I feel about animals being used as tools for human enjoyment, but I feel that Maesa Elephant Camp have struck a good balance — they’re a good choice for your elephant-riding experience.

How to catch the metro in Buenos Aires, Argentina

December 15, 2011 in Argentina

Although Buenos Aires’s metro system isn’t as extensive as that of some other cities, like London or Tokyo, it’s a useful tool for getting around the city. Tickets are cheap, it’s pretty safe, and it’s a lot easier to get your head around than the bus system.

The system is known as the subte, short for subterranean (“underground” in Spanish), and this is what you’ll see on the brightly-coloured metro signs. There are six lines, mostly operating on a hub-and-spoke system radiating out from the downtown area, though line C (blue) breaks the mould by intersecting the others, linking the two train stations of Concepción and Retiro. The new line H runs parallel to line C.

Major intersections are near the Obelisk landmark, and near the cathedral in the Plaza de Mayo — in both of these locations three lines cross and you can change between lines within the system, without having to pay again. Oddly, though, the stations have different names according to which line they’re on, so in the same location you’ll find Cathedral on line D, Peru on line A, and Bolivar on line E. Subte lines are distinguished by letter and colour; when you see a subte sign you’ll know which line it’s on by its colour, which makes it easy to find the right station.

Subte sign

The station signs are colour-coded depending on which line you're travelling on.

Tickets

Each journey on the subte costs A$1.10, (or almost nothing in other words), and the credit-card sized tickets are available in denominations of one, two, and ten rides. There’s no discount for buying higher-denomination tickets, but you’ll save a lot of time by buying a ten-ride card, as lines to buy tickets can be quite long at rush hour. You buy your ticket in person from a booth located in the metro station itself, then insert the ticket into the slot on the front of the turnstile to get access to the platforms. The machine will spit the ticket out from a different slot on top of the turnstile, and when you remove it you’ll be able to pass through; an LCD display will tell you how many journeys remain on your ticket. As many people as you like can use the same card, just pass it back to the next person to let them insert it as well. You only need a ticket to enter, not exit, the subte, and the price is the same regardless of the length of your journey.

A new ticket, the SUBE, has recently been introduced and could be a good option if you’re going to spend a bit more time in the city. It’s a stored-value card, and the money you put on it can be used on the metro, trains and some buses. If you’re only in Buenos Aires for a short visit, the hassle of getting one probably isn’t worth your while.

Subte carriage

Carriages can be packed during peak times.

The subte doesn’t run all night; the lines close at different times but more or less at around 10:30pm (earlier on Sundays). This means that it’s a great method of transport during the day, but not so useful if you’re heading out for a night out. Then again, if you do it right you could be heading home at the same time the subte opens again in the morning, at 5am.

The journey

It’s quite common to see buskers on the subte, like in metros in other countries. You’ll see a variety of styles, from solo performers to groups of two or three; porteños will give money if they enjoyed the performance and you can too — keep a few coins or a $2 note in a handy place so you don’t have to pull out your wallet.

You’ll also see beggars, or more commonly, people selling low-value items. They’ll walk through the carriage handing out the items or placing them on people’s knees, then come back to collect the items or take payment. I bought a pack of tissues once, and saw someone buying a mirror on another occasion; this form of selling is generally accepted if not always welcomed.

Subte arriving Buenos Aires

Subte arriving

Safety

Although it’s unlikely that you will run into any problems, follow some basic safety procedures while using the Buenos Aires subte. As always when using public transport, be aware of your belongings and keep your bags on your front, especially when the subte is busy. Also, avoid talking loudly in English as this will attract attention, and keep an eye out for people acting strangely near you.

The subte is a great way to get around Buenos Aires, give it a go for yourself.

Also see: Buenos Aires transport and our Buenos Aires travel guide.

La Plata cathedral, Argentina [video]

December 14, 2011 in Argentina

La Plata is the capital city of the Buenos Aires province of Argentina, and is located about an hour by bus from Buenos Aires itself (which, oddly, isn’t part of the BA province). It’s a planned city, laid out in a square-shaped grid with a large plaza in the centre. The cathedral and town hall face each other across the plaza, with other major buildings located nearby.

The cathedral, the largest in Argentina, was built in a neo-Gothic style, but certainly doesn’t date from the neo-Gothic period. Work started in 1884, the first mass was held in 1932, and the towers were finally finished in 1999.

The museum in the basement gives an insight into its construction, and you can take the elevator up one of the towers for a good view of the city.

Useful websites for booking flights

December 6, 2011 in Travel

Flights are probably going to be your number-one cost for almost any sort of trip outside of your country. There are many options to choose from: a round-the-world ticket, point-to-point flights, or avoiding flying altogether and going by boat, bus or foot.

If you do decide to fly (and let’s face it, most of us will if only because it’s so much faster) it’s important to do your research before forking out. There are some awesome deals out there if you know where to look.

STA Travel

Starting with a travel agent’s website will give you an idea of the ballpark figure you can expect to pay, as well as giving you a challenge to beat. STA Travel is a great choice because they are trustworthy and international, and offer a lot of fantastic deals. Students and under-26s sometimes get cheaper flights than the rest of us, but there’s plenty for the older crowd too.

We often start by visiting the STA website and revisit it periodically to check for deals (you can also sign up to their mailing list). And more than once, we’ve found a deal that’s better than anything we could find online, like return flights from Auckland to Buenos Aires for NZ$999.

Booking through a travel agent adds an extra layer of security as the staff are on hand to answer any questions that come up, and smooth over any problems you may have with the airline.

Flight aggregator

Next, visit a flight aggregator like the one here on Indie Travel Podcast that’s powered by Dohop. Different sites are better in different locations; we tend to use Skyscanner in Europe, Webjet in Oceania, and Despegar in South America. There’s also Momondo and Kayak among others, have a play with all of them and see what deals come up. Most of these sites will give a fair indication of the flights available, but some budget airlines aren’t listed or promotions aren’t taken into account, so it can also be worth visiting the websites of the individual airlines.

Clouds from a plane window

Wikipedia

Wikipedia has a great article on budget airlines that can provide valuable information about what companies operate where you’re going. Head to the individual airlines’ websites and look for a “where we fly” page to get an idea of their destinations. Look for hubs, where a lot of flights pass through, as you might be able to string together two flights through a hub for a lot cheaper than buying a direct flight from point A to point B.

We just bought flights from Christchurch to London with Air Asia. This is listed as an option on the Air Asia website but a booking enquiry for this route ended with the message that all seats were sold out. Knowing that Air Asia’s hub is Kuala Lumpur, I did two separate searches, from Christchurch to KL and from KL to London, and found flights available for the dates I wanted, at a total cost of about NZ$520 per person — ludicrously cheap. Sure, we’d have preferred to fly from Auckland, but it’s only NZ$50 to get down to Christchurch, and anyway the in-laws always want us to visit!

Air Asia plane

Google maps

Sometimes flying into a nearby airport instead of into your first choice can save you a lot of money in flights. But it’s worth knowing where that airport is, how far away it is from your target destination. Use Google Maps’ “get directions” feature to calculate the distances.

We once saved $200 per ticket on a flight from Australia to New Zealand by flying from the Gold Coast instead of from Brisbane. We caught a train down from the city and spent a couple of days on the beach before flying out. We made sure to check that the price of transport was less than what we saved on flight costs, by visiting the local tourist website and doing a Google search for “transport Brisbane Gold Coast”.

Toandfromtheairport.com

Factor the cost of getting into town from the airport into the cost of your ticket.

Before you book your flight, make sure to visit toandfromthrairport.com. It’s incredible how varied the prices can be to get from the airport to the central city in different locations. Some airports are part of the public transport network and you can buy a regular ticket for a couple of bucks; in other cases your only option is an expensive taxi ride or transfer. Factor the cost of getting into town from the airport into the cost of your ticket, it might not seem like such a good deal after all.

Xe.com

When searching, you might not be able to view prices in your preferred currency; keep xe.com open in a tab and copy and paste in the prices you discover. I found this extremely useful recently when looking at flights from Colombia and I had no idea what 1,600,000 pesos meant (too much, it turned out, but it was good to know).

Forums

Don’t forget you don’t have to do all the work for yourself. Ask questions on Facebook, Twitter or forums like the one here at ITP, or on Bootsnall or Lonely Planet. Maybe someone has already asked the question you want the answer to, do a search through the archives before posting a new thread.

There are lots of resources out there to help you save money on your flights. Just remember to be flexible and look at a few options before committing, even if you do end up back in the travel agent’s where you started.

[Close Ad] Remove this ad! Log in or join the Indie Travel Podcast Community.