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Vegetarian’s survival guide to Mongolia

September 21, 2010 in Mongolia

Vegetarians beware.

There may be plenty of vegetarian dining options in Ulaanbaatar, the capital city of Mongolia, but if you are planning a trip to Outer Mongolia, make it a short one. Or bring lots and lots of your own food supplies.

Let me take you to Tosontsengel, in Northwestern Outer Mongolia, where we are treated to an old-style Mongolian barbecue – “a feast for kings”.

The sheep is slaughtered using the traditional technique – I’ll spare you the gory details here, but just picture that scene from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, and you’ll get the picture.

First course

First course is a rich mutton broth made from the water in which the internal organs have been boiling away for the last three hours.

Second course

mongolia travel_yummy organsSecond course, you guessed it, the organs are presented to the guests of honour first – slopped into a steel bowl and placed at your feet with the handle of a large, sharp knife that has been made for meat-eating pointed in your direction. Dive in and carve off a piece of lung, kidney, or heart for your dining pleasure.

The organs are the most nutritious, and therefore the most highly prized part of the animal. Mongolia freezes over during their long, harsh winters, and the nomadic herding lifestyle has evolved in response to act as a family’s energy store through the cold months; hence Mongolians’ love of meat, meat, and more meat.

Third course

Third course? Another version of mutton broth, to cleanse your palate – this one richer than the first, if that is possible, made from the water the rest of the carcass has been simmering in for the last three hours.

Don’t forget the condiments! Pickled green tomatoes, potent wild onions, zesty pickled beetroot, and perhaps some baby boiled potatoes. Mongolia’s growing season is short, and conditions harsh (you try growing vegetables in the Gobi Desert), so if you are lucky enough to be served veggies in the countryside then know that you are truly being treated as royalty.

Fourth course

Thankfully, the fourth course is not a boiled carcass – rather, more recognisable cuts of meat served up in another bowl with more knife handles pointed at your belly so that you can hack a chunk of meat from the bone you’ve picked. Wipe the grease from your hands on a leather bridle, which is passed around the yurt; clean your hands and keep your hosts’ riding equipment soft and supple at the same time!

Take another sip of the traditional, ubiquitous salty milk tea called ‘tsu te tse’, and brace yourself for the next course. Milk is another highly nutritious product of the nomads’ animal herds, and is preserved by making it into cheeses and yoghurts; diluting milk in tea is another way to stretch this precious resource further.

Fifth course

The fifth course you will not have seen before: the boiled sheep’s stomach, bulging with its mystery contents, is presented on a platter. Your host produces his knife with a flourish, and deftly opens the sac to reveal… the sheep’s head, whose lips have been drawn back into a macabre smile when its hair was singed off in preparation for your meal.

A couple more deft slices of his knife, and the tripe bag opens to reveal the sheep’s shins and hooves, which have also been singed, and stuffed in along with the happy head, whose jaw now drops open with a dull thud, turning its grin into a toothy guffaw.

But wait, there’s more! The fatty tail pad has been scooped out, filled with minced meat, sewn shut and boiled next to the stuffed stomach for the last three hours – it is this part that was considered to be Ghengis’s favorite meal – A Feast Fit For The Khan.

Vegetarian survival guide to Mongolia:

  1. 1. Cling to the first piece of meat offered to you and nurse it through your entire meal. If you pick this bone clean your hosts will only offer you more.
  2. 2. Hold your breath when sipping the organ stew. Have some bottled water or fruit juice nearby in your canteen to wash the taste out of your mouth.
  3. 3. Beam with delight when offered pickled veggies or (on the very rare occasion) green salad to encourage your host to offer you more.
  4. 4. Sit next to a friendly carnivore whom you can offload your meat dishes on to when nobody is looking.
  5. 5. Clap your hands like a madwoman when the yoghurt appears. If you do this well, it will be lovingly prepared with clotted cream and sugar as you swallow back your drool. Your belly will thank you for this.

Need some Mongolia travel survival tips?

Prepare for your first solo overnight trek

July 8, 2009 in Preparing to Travel

Recently, after stumbling across Kathmandu’s 50% off Winter Clearance Sale in the busy streets of downtown Sydney, I hatched a plan to strike out for an overnight solo hike in the Blue Mountains. With all that incredible gear on sale, how could I not? The store was so packed with businessmen and businesswomen in sober suits and sensible skirts that you couldn’t move without bumping someone’s elbow.

It was there, in a tiny corner of this busy city store that the gears in my head started creaking together, sketching out the dubious plan that went something like “hike into the wilderness– spend a solitary night on a mountain.”

Spending all that money on my new tent was sobering: I’d never been on a solo trek. My mind started buzzing incessantly: “How would I find my way if I lost the path? Will my sister’s sleeping bag keep me warm enough? And how the hell do I pitch this tent anyway?”

I’d never really done much hiking by myself. Sure, I’d done lots of short hikes with partners, and a handful of 4-5 hour day hikes, but nothing the scale of 48 hours alone in the wilderness.

Since then I’ve completed my first solo in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney, hiking into the green sea of eucalyptus to spend the night alone under a large cave on Mount Solitary before hiking out the next day. It was a spectacular trek into the wild, along a popular yet empty trail that had recently claimed a young man’s life.

Packing checklist

Make sure you pack the essentials so that you have everything you need, and return safely from your first solo in the wilderness.

ruined castle

  1. Overnight backpack
  2. Tent with fly and footing
  3. Sleeping bag and liner
  4. Sleeping mat
  5. Matches
  6. Water
  7. Thermal underwear
  8. Thermal fleece outerwear
  9. Wet weather jacket
  10. Two days’ worth of clothes (t-shirt, trousers, underwear, boots, socks)
  11. Extra socks
  12. Two days worth of food: I suggest two packets of ramen, one spring onion, six shitake mushrooms, two 200g blocks of chocolate, three bagels, two small avocados, two small apples, an orange, and tea or coffee naked bus
  13. Camping stove
  14. Camping cookware and utensils
  15. LED camping lantern
  16. LED torch
  17. Poncho
  18. Camera
  19. Mini tripod
  20. Swiss army knife
  21. Journal and pen

What nobody tells you

Nobody tells you about the quirky little details of hiking alone in the wilderness. Like how ten minutes into the hike, the muscles in your lower back and shoulders start complaining about the 25 kg pack which holds all of your supplies for the next 48 hours. Or how bad your socks will smell inside your tent tonight. I suppose if they did, less of us would be so eager to get out there into it.

The epic posters in the outdoors shops don’t even come close to telling you about these nuances, nor do they hint at the other more satisfying details. Like the satisfaction you get from discovering a trail that only reveals itself five meters or so at a time. Or how the wind announces itself unexpectedly: whispering, then whooshing as it winds its way through a valley. The trees around you anticipate silently, then swoosh excitedly as their canopies sway and play when the wind hits.

West Highland Way

Tips and tricks

  • Research your trek — spend a day chatting with locals to get the inside scoop.
    Check in with local authorities — better safe than sorry.
  • Allow extra time — if the locals tell you it will take three hours, then allow five. You are unfamiliar with the trek, and besides, you’ll want to be able to take your time and savour the journey.
  • Leave early — even if it means a cold morning start, you will reap the benefits when you reach your destination early enough to give you time to relax, unwind, and enjoy the surroundings before sunset.
  • Train your body — one thought my back and shoulders kept grumbling about on my solo was “I wish I had trained for this”. Take your pack on day hikes and fill it as if you were going overnight to get your body used to the weight and bulk beforehand.
  • Leave your iPod behind – bring a journal instead, and savour the silence of the wilderness. There’s nothing like gazing into the depths of a campfire with only your thoughts as companions; take the opportunity to discover something new about yourself!

Nobody tells you either, about how the warm shower you take when you return will be one of the best showers you have had in your life. Perhaps ever. Or, about how satisfied you will feel as you stretch your sore legs and drain the last of your cold beer while you savour a juicy rump steak and gaze into the fireplace at the local pub.

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